Adventuring by foot

We decided to pay a visit to Corfe Castle on the Purbeck peninsula - supposed to be very cool place even though it’s a ruins. I had a suspicion that it would be walkable but also that there was a bus (not direct - connection in Swanage, one cove over). So after futzing about on the boat for awhile, we piled in the PP and made for shore. We started walking about 11:30ish. We asked for directions at a farm tea room near the beach and she didn’t bat an eye when I said we were going to Corfe Castle so I figured that meant we could walk it. Up a pretty lane with a cluster of posh houses and onto the Downs, for a gorgeous walk - amazing views, good walking and lots of cows and sheep with lambs roaming around. 

Unfortunately, we had to descend from the first one into a valley in order to go back up another Down. Even worse, in between them, we had to walk along a narrow country road with cars flying by at terrifying speeds (country roads in any culture…) - I tried to find a way off it and wandered up to a golf course where a friendly lady confirmed that our route did indeed briefly join the road and if we kept on, soon we’d see signage to Corfe Castle. 

Sure enough, when we defied death long enough to make it to our walking trail we were on the path to Corfe Castle (3 3/4 miles from that turn off - Sam nearly rebelled). The most frequent signage was in the form of low, gravestone shaped markers, with words carved into them - they take their trails seriously here.  Soon we had an option for an “Under Hill” route vs “Over the Downs” route - Sam and I chose the Under Hill route and Natalie walked over the downs. Our route was overgrown but clear - skirting between the farm fields and the steep hill. We got thoroughly thistled-up but the cows/horses/sheep distracted us. We found Natalie in Corfe village and rushed to find lunch as we were starving. Had lunch in a pub garden then explored the massive ruins - absolutely worth the walk!

To get back we had a few options: Bus to Swanage and walk the coast back? Or walk the whole way back? A bribery stop in a sweets shop gave me the leverage (Clotted Cream Fudge) to get Sam to agree to walk back so we headed off - all of us on the Downs walk this time, which turned out to be my favorite. You can see the ruins of Corfe Castle for some time and it was awesome to imagine what it might have been like to approach it when it was standing. 

You can see the ruins of Corfe Castle just over Sam's shoulder

 We did the Underhill route for the final Downs, and cut across up and over (rather than the long way around to the tip of the peninsula where it would have been fun to see the Old Harry Rocks from land but oh well) to Stutland Bay and the boat at 7 pm. 

We hailed Murray on the handheld VHF and he came to get us, focused on enjoying a pint at the picturesque pub where he’d had one last night. We all had dinner there to celebrate 16.5 miles hiked (I think my GPS might have overestimated but I’m not sure) - lamb shanks and curry in honor of all the adorable lambs we saw during our hike (and a brie and cranberry baguette sandwich for our vegetarian). Then back to the boat, for a bit of a movie and bed. 

All in all, a very successful land excursion. Sam crushed it - even in terrible footwear! Next stop we’ll get him better shoes pronto. Corfe Castle was worth the beautiful walk and now we can plan to visit sites within 5 miles of the coast without car hire or figuring out the bus. It’s very annoying not to have WiFi to figure things out.